There used to be a saying that indicated approval of someone’s successful efforts — “Now you’re cooking with GAS!” We suppose it was a reference to the old wood-fired cook stoves, which were much more difficult to use than the new-fangled gas-fired ranges and ovens.

But today, “You’re cooking with GAS!?” might be an exclamation of horror by those who are concerned about our carbon footprint and global warming. A study, published in Thursday’s journal Environmental Science & Technology, indicates that gas stoves contribute significantly more to greenhouse gases because of tiny, constant leaks of methane into the atmosphere. The study reports gas stoves put 2.6 million tons of methane into the air even when they are not on.

A lot of people use electric ranges and ovens, but many cooks — especially the more serious ones –prefer gas for several reasons. It’s hot right away –no waiting for an electrical element to warm up. It’s more responsive when you adjust the heat. In some recipes that makes a big difference.

Electric ranges have their own carbon footprint, of course. That electricity has to be generated somehow, and much of it is generated by burning natural gas anyway. We don’t know if that creates as much methane as millions of little leaks, but until solar and wind power totally supplant gas-powered generators, we may have to put up with it.

There are some who feel we should all stop cooking, especially meat, and eat raw vegetarian meals. They are free to do that, if they want, but some like their meals hot, even sizzling. To each their own.