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Growing and caring for amaryllis

Amaryllis may be purchased as bare or planted bulbs, and are prized for their exotic trumpet-shaped flowers born on 1 to 2 foot leafless stalks. The flowers range from 4 to 10 inches in size. The most popular colors are red and white, but they may also be pink, salmon, apricot, rose or deep burgundy.

The size & condition of bulbs will influence amaryllis performance. When selecting the bulbs, select the largest bulb available as they will produce more stalks and blooms the first year. Bulbs should be firm and dry without signs of mold, decay or injury. It is common to see new growth emerging from bare or planted bulbs. Choose bulbs with bright green new growth and without spots or visible damage.

Plants grow best in narrow containers. Containers may be made of plastic, metal, ceramic or terracotta. Select a container that has one or more holes in the bottom and drains easily. Good drainage will minimize the chance of bulb or root rot. The diameter of the pot should be about 1 inch wider than the widest part of the bulb and twice as tall as the bulb to allow space for good root development.

Fill the pot about ½ full of sterile, new potting soil high in organic matter, such as peat moss. Set the bulb in the pot so the roots rest on the potting soil. The bulb should sit up above the edge of the container. Add more soil, tapping it down around the bulb, until 1/3 or ½ of the bulb remains visible. Firm the potting medium around the bulb. Set the pot in a sink where it can drain freely and water until the potting soil is thoroughly moist. Allow to drain completely. Set the pot on a saucer and place in a sunny window.

Water the plant when the top 2 inches of soil feels dry, allowing the container to drain each time. Do not let the plant sit in water as wet soil can promote bulb and root rot and attract pests. Fertilize amaryllis each time you water at half the recommended strength when new growth is visible. To promote blooming, use a house plant fertilizer with a high phosphorus content. (That is the middle number of the three numbers listed on fertilizer labels.) Move the plant out of direct sunlight when the flower buds have begun to open.

The secret to keeping amaryllis thriving for years is to keep the plants actively growing AFTER they have finished blooming. After the flowers have faded, cut the spent bloom off to prevent seed formation but do not remove the flower stalk until it has turned yellow. A green stem will continue to promote photosynthesis, which creates energy that is stored in the bulb for future leaf growth and flowers. If the bulb does not produce a flowering stalk the next blooming period, it is likely that it has not stored enough nutrients during the post-blooming period.

After your plant has finished blooming, place it in the sunniest possible location indoors and water and fertilize the plant regularly with an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer.

Next spring the entire pot can be planted in a shady location outside when danger of frost is past. Another article with more directions will be printed next spring.

Information obtained from Mary Meyer, Extension Horticulturalist and Julie Weisenhorn. Extension Educator 2018.

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